(Reaffirmed 2012) Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TREATED FABRICS TO (First Revision) Treated Smu ChlZi?Tkl~ RAMAN M. PATEL Fabrics Sectional Committee, CETDC 3 RBfirescnting The Bhor Industrka Pvt Ltd, Bombay Ministry of Defence to (DGI) Vtie-Chairman SHRI B. H. DALAL Members SHRI M. KUMARAN (Altematc Shri B. H. D&l) Jd "d Az2w.u fz Dharampur Leather Cloth Co Ltd, Dharampur Directorate General of Technical Development, New Delhi Bengal Waterproof Works (1910) Ltd, Calcutta SIilUkBOsE Railway Board (Ministry of Railways) ~ANDMETII.LLURGIST, INTEGRALCOACH FACTORY, MADRAS Assrsr~~~ RESEARCH OFFICER(CM-Z), RE.QZARCH, DEHGNS AND STANDARDS ORGANIZATION, CHITTARANJAN (Al&m&) Ministry of Deface (R & D) SHRI S. L. GANDHI SHRI B. S. MATHUR (Alternate) National Test House, Calcutta SHRl S. P. MULLICK SHRI A. GHOSH (Altcma~) Dire~$t;)e~~raral of Supplies and Disposals. SHRI I. L. PATEL . . Associationof State Road TransportUndertakings, New Delhi Central Warehousing Corporation, New Delhi SXIU P. RAMADAS SHRIM. S. VENKATARAMAN (Akmate) Macneill & Barry Ltd (Kilbum Division). Calcutta SHRI E. S. SRINNASAN SHRIP. S. JAYARAMAN (Alternate) Directorate General of Mines Safety, Dhanbad SHRI A. C. SRIVASTAVA SHRI D. DAS GUPTA. Director General, IS1 (Ex-@cio Member) Director (Chem) secretary SHRI SAMIRDAS ~&PTA Assistant Director (Chem), IS1 SHR~B. P. SENCUPTA (Altanatc) SHRI P. D. RAIE Panel for Glossary of Terms for Treated SHRI B. P. WAGHE 0 Fabrics, CETDC 3 : P3 The Bhor Industries Pvt Ltd, Bomba: Copyright 1973 INDIAN STANDARDS INSTITUTION This publication is protected under the Indian Copyright Act (XIV of 1957 ) and reproduction in whole or in part byany means except with written permission of the publisher shall be deemed to be an infringement of copyright under the said Act. 1st 2244-1972 Indian Standard GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TREATED FABRICS TO (First Revision) 0. 0.1 This FOREWORD Indian Standard (First Revision) was adopted by the' Indian Standards Institution on 7 November 1972, after the draft finalized by Treated Fabrics Sectional Committee had been approved by the Chemical Division Council, Mechanical Engineering Division Council and Textile Division Council. 0.2 This standard was first published in 1965, Based on the experience gained during the use of the standard, some of the definitions of terms have been revised. This glossary may require the user to choose some different terms than what have been used previously, and to place somewhat different interpretations on others, but it is hoped the ultimate advantages in doing so will outweigh any immediate disadvantages. 0.3 In preparing this standard, considerable assistance has been derived from the following publications : BS 1755 : 1951 Glossary of terms used in the plastics industry. British Standards Institution. BS 1755 : Part 1 : 1967 Glossary of terms used in the plastics industry: Part I Polymerization and plastics materials. British Standards Institution. ASTM Designation : D123-71 Definitions of terms relating to textile materials. American Society for Testing and Materials. 0.4 Should any difference exist between the definitions given in this glossary and those in the standards for the individual materials, the latter shall prevail. 1. SCOPE , 1.1 This fabrics. standard prescribes the definitions of terms related' to treated 2. DEFINITIONS A Abraded Yarn - A continuous filament yarn in which the outer filaments have been purposely cut or abraded at intervals to bring about certain 2 degree of hairiness. before using. Abraded yarns are usually plied with other yarns by rubbing wearing away of any part of a material Abrasion -The against another surface. Accelerated Agting - The phenomenon that results in change of characteristics of materials which occurs under condition of elevated temperature and humidity in air or oxygen. Acetate, Mod&xlcellulose Bcetate. The acetate products composed principally of Adherent FailureThe rupture of an adhesive bond, such that the separation appears to be within the adherent. state in which two surfaces are held together by interAdhesion -The facial forces which may consist of valency forces or interlocking action or both. Adhesive - A substance capable of holding materials together by surfhce wetting and interfacial forces. rupture of an adhesive bond such that the Adhesive Failure -The place of separation appears to be. at the adhesive adherent inter&e. Ageing - The phenomenon that results in change in characteristics of a material with time under stated conditions, which may be natural or accelerated. Air Permeability - The volume of air in cubic centimetres passed per second through one square centimetre of the fabric under specified conditions. Ambitnt Ttmptraturtan object. Temperature of the medium surrounding Antistatic Agent - A compound applied on textile retention of electrical charges by the fibre. B to eliminate the Back Si&g - A non-fibrous material, such as insoluble clays or gypsum, together with starches, gums, etc, added to fabric to increase its weight or to modify the appearance or feel of the fabric. Bale -A compressed package of defined quantity of textile material in a form convenient for transit. A fabric in which each group of two or more warp en& passes alternately over and under groups of two or more picks. Basket Cloth - 3 la: 2244-1972 make angles Bias-Cut -A material cut so that warp and weft threads other than 90" with the edges. Binder - A component of an adhesive composition which is primarily responsible for the adhesive forces which hold two bodies together. Bitumen Felt -A woven or non-woven fabric impregnated with bitumen and treated by passage through the bituminous coating material and finally surface treated with talc, slate, mica, etc. Bleaching - A process of improving (other than by scouring) the whiteness of fabrics from their grey state, by decolourizing them with or without removing colouring matter and extraneous substances. Bleeding - The running of colour in fabrics during scouring, milling or crabbing; or the running of colour in fabrics from its dyed to undyed (or other dyed) parts during washing or dry cleaning. Fabrics that bleed may cause staining of white or other light coloured fabrics which come in contact with them. Blister The pockets of air, gas or any other gap on treated fabrics. such as Blocking - An adhesion between touching layers of plastic, that which may develop under pressure during storage or use. Bloom material. _Y- A visible exudation or efflorescence on the surface of a coated A fabric having a stiff and harsh feel. Book Cloth - A variety of cotton fabrics in plain weave used. in book binding. They are usually coloured, heavily sized and embossed between hot rollers. Box Mark - A widthwise fine line showing stained or injured to the rubbing by shuttle when it rebounds from the box. Brat&e Cloth - A non-inflammable, fire-proof It is used in mines as wind-screens for ventilators. and weft due fabric. rot-proof Breakdown Voltage - The voltage required under specified conditions to puncture the dielectric when the electrodes are in contact with the material and the voltage increased at a specified rate. Brealsing Load-The load that develops the maximum specimen during a tensile test carried to rupture. tension in a Breaking Strength -- The maximum resultant internal force that resists rupture in a tensile test. 4 Broken End - A narrow warpwise void in a fabric caused by breaking of warp yarn during weaving (see Fig. 1). FIG. 1 Broken Pick Broken BROKENENDS A defect in a fabric caused by breaking of weft threads. twill weave in which the move number is not Twill -Any constant with the result that the continuity of the twill line is broken. Bubble Buckram Bulk The internal void or trapped globule of air or other gas. as underlining cloth for giving -- A stiffened fabric used stiffness and shape to the garments. Density-The density of a moulding material in loose form (granular, nodular, etc) expre.ved as a ratio of weight to volume. Burlap -- SeeJute. Bursting Strength - pressure. The ability of a material C to resist rupture by Calender - A machine comprised of at least three heated to produce film and sheet material. 5 rollers, used c8lendering - A mechanical method done by rollers to provide glare, glossiness, hardness, lustre, shine, and even embossed designs to fabrics. Calendering is usually done to impart a special finish to fabrics. CaEco A generic term for plain weave fabric heavier than muslin. plain weave fabric usually light weight closely woven Cambric -A given a slight stiffening. strong, firm, plain or double-end plain cloth made with Canvrs -A single or plied yarns. In this type of cloth the warp predominates and a feature of the heavier canvas is the very close packing of the warp which is highly crimped over a straight weft. Carpet - A floor covering fabric having a pile surface made from yarn `and woven by traditional methods, but currently also being produced with machines. ClBiBOII A plain and open weave lightweight fabric woven out of hard twisted yarn. CtrmkrclLnit Fabric knitting machine. A fabric made in tubular form on a circular Closed Assembly Time (in Adhtsive Bonding) - The time between the assembling of adhesive-coated surfaces and the application of pressurt. A fabric with uneven shade caused by uneven dyeing, cxoudycloth&t&y finishing or bleaching or due to defects in the yarns. fabric which is coated, laminated, filled or impregCoated Fabric -A nated with a suitable composition. a) The process of applying a thin layer of a material in the form of fluid or powder upon a substrate. NOTE Laminating is not considered coating. b) A thin layer of a material applied by a coating process. &@iug Compwnd 4 A viscoussolution or emulsion of high polymers, suitable for application to the surface of fabrics by a spread-coatmg process. b> A polymer usually plasticized and without solvent, suitable for application by calendering, knife-coating, roller-coating or dipping with a calender canter to fabrics. A solution of synthetic resin of any type suitable for application to 4 fabrics by spraying, dipping or brushing. 6 \ IS: 2244-1972 Co&&g-The curliness or crimpiness in fabrics, due to irregular shrinkage in milling1 or scouring when yarns of different counts, quality, or with varying tensions are woven together. Cold Bend Test - A test used to assess the flexibility of treated fabrics at low temperatures. It is carried out by bending a specimen to a specified The teat radius while maintaining at a specified subnormal temperature. temperature is based upon consideration of the conditions under which the material is intended to be used. Cold Crack Temperatures - The cold , b) 4 4 . 4 Dyeing or Printing on the Selvedge Curled Selvedge (Rolled Selvedge) - Turned over selvedge. l&a Selvedge (Burst Se&edge or Cut Selvedge) - Selvedge with cuts or tears (see Fig. 3). Distorted Selvedge - A which is not straight. selvedge with which does not vary in width but weft loops extending LOOPY Selvedge - Selvedge beyond it (see Fig. 4). irregular f > Pulled-in Selvedge - Selvedge with edges pulled-in. d Rugged or Rugged Selvedge - A wavy selvedge showing or corrugation at the edges. indentations of the l-4 Sctzllojed j> Selvekge - An abrupt narrow place in the selvedge finished cloth. A selvedge that is slacker than the body of the fabric. This may cause cut, tom or burst selvedges during subsequent processing (see Fig. 51. that is tighter than the Selvedge - A t&edge fabric. This may cause cut, tom or burst s&edges quent processing. Uneven Selvedge Selvedge which varies in width. body of the during subse- Slack Selvedge - k> Tight 9 Deformation - A change in the shape of specimen, for example, change in length, produced as a result of the application of a load. Deformation may be immediate or delayed, and it may be recoverable or non-recoverable. Degrrrdation - A deleterious change in a polymer. 9 Is t 22u-1972 FIG. 3 TORN SELVEDGE FIG. 4 LOOPY SELVEDGE 10 FIG. 5 Delamination - The separation coating on treated fabrics. SLACK SELVEDCE or splitting, usually due to defective of raw Denier - The number of unit weights of @05 g per 450 m length silk or continuous filament rayon or synthetic fibre yarn. NOTE-Numerically it is equal to the number of grams per 9 000' m. Density - The mass per unit volume. per cubic centimetre. Density, Linear - The mass per unit as gram per kilometre for yarns. Deterioration -A material evidenced It is preferably length. It expressed as grams is usually expressed of a permanent change in the physical by impairment of these properties. properties ratio of the capacitance of a condenser Dielectric Constant -The having the material as dielectric to the capacity of the same condenser having vacuum as dielectric. The dielectric constant of a vacuum is unity; for all practica.1 purposes air at ordinary pressures has the same value and may be substituted for the vacuum. Dielectric Strength - The voltage per unit thickness of the required to cause puncture when the electrodes are in contact material and the voltage is increased at a specified rate. 11 dielectric with the Is: 2244-1972 DiInent - In an organosol, a liquid component which has little or no solvating action on the resin, its purpose being to modify the action of the dispersant. Dispersion - A heterogeneous system in which a finely divided material In plastics technology, a is distributed in a matrix of another material. dispersion is usually the distribution of a finely divided solid in a liquid or a solid; for example, (a) pigments or fillers in moulded plastics, (b) plastisols or (c) organosols. Doctor Blade - A bar attached to a coating machine evenly and to control the thickness of the coating. Dope A semi-fluid composition used .for proofing. to spread a coating Double Jersey - A fabric with fine ribs structures made on a machine having two beds of needles, each part knitting independently of the other. Double Texture Rubberized Fabric-The rubber composition and laminated together. Dough Drib weave. A See Dope. warp faced twill weave fabric commonly in 3/l or 2/l twill base fabric treated with Duck - A closely-woven, plainweave, strong, heavy, balanced cloth. It is used for purposes, such as sails, footwear linings, tarpaulins and tent Cloth. E a Ed@wise (of a La minate) - Parallel to the layers of a laminate; direction in which a load or electric stress may be applied in testing laminated sheets. &ctive Electric Width-See Strength Usable Width. Strength. tension; it See Dielectric Elongation-The increase in length of a specimen under `is usually expressed as a percentage of the original length. Embossing - A process by which a fabric is pressed between rolls to give a raised. pattern. Ends -The warp threads of a fabric. engraved Extaudbility - The property by virtue of which a material can undergo extension or elongation following the application of sufficient force. 12 F Fabric -A term which covers all types of cloth or cloth-like textile materials independent of construction, method of manufacture, or nature of the material used. better appearance Face - The coated side of a fabric or cloth. The coated side in case of fabric coated on both sides. Fastness (Colonr) - The resistance of the eolour of textile materials to different processes and agencies to which they may be subjected during testing or manufacture and subsequent use. Feel - The feel of a cloth when handled, for example, harsh, soft, rough, smooth, silky or stiff. Felt -A textile fabric characterized by the densely matted of most or all of the fibres of which it is composed. Fibre - condition Any type of filament of natural or synthetic origin characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness (from which generally yarns and fabrics are manufactured). Fibre Length - The extent of the fibre in the lengthwise direction. by coating material and which are at or above the surface of a reinforced material. Fibre Strength Filler - Fibre Show -- The strands or bundles of fibres which are not covered The average breaking load of a single fibre. A non-fibrous material, such as insoluble clay or gypsum, together with starches, gums, etc, added to a fabric to increase its mass or to modify the appearance or handle of the fabric; also referred to as back-sizing. Fire-Resistant Fabric-A fabric treated with special agents to make them resistant to fire as measured in terms of `time of withstanding a standard test temperature' and having self-extinguishing property. Small globular mass which has not blended completely into the surrounding material, particularly evident in a transparent or translucent material. Fish Eye - Flake Flatwise Separation of coating in small thin bits from the fabric. (of a L aminate) - Perpendicular to the layers of a laminate; a direction in which a load or electric stress may be applied in testing laminated sheets. Flex Cracking-A cracked condition of the surface of treated fabric, such as leather cloth, resulting from constantly repeated bending or flexing. 13 Is : 2244 - 1972 Flexibility a) The case of bending of a fabric ranging from pliable (high) to stiff (low). b) In the case of a fibre, it is the ability to be deformed without rupture or fracture. Float - A portion of warp or weft yarn weft or warp yarns respectively. Full Width-The treated fabrics. perpendicular distance which passes over two or more between the two selvedges of Fusion - In vinyl dispersions, the heating of a dispersion to produce a homogeneous mixture. There is an apparent mutual solvation of the resin and plasticizer. Fusion Temperature (Fluxing Temperature) the temperature at which fusion occurs. G In vinyl dispersions Gaberdine- A firm, tightly woven, steep-twill fabric characterized diagonal Gauge fabrics. ribs distinguished by appreciably the physical more ends than picks. dimensions, A term specifying by usually thickness of mesh, loosely woven Gauze cloth - A term applied fabric in plain or leno weave. to a thin, , open Gel a) A semisolid system consisting of a network of solid aggregates, in which liquid is held. b) The initial jelly-like solid phase which develops during the formation of a resin from a liquid. Both types of gel have very low strengths and do not flow like a liquid. They are soft and flexible and will rupture under their own weight unless supported externally. G&tiOll a) The formation of gel. b) In vinyl dispersions, the formation of gel in the early stages of fusion. Glaze-The smooth, glossy and plane appearance of the surface of a fabric produced by the application of heat, heavy pressure or friction. Glaze Finish fabric. The smooth, lustrous finish on the face side of the treated which a surface to reflect light. 14 approaches perfect optical Gloss-The degree to smoothness in its capacity Is: Glue Spread -- The mass of glue in a glue line per unit area It is normally expressed in g/m2. Gout-Foreign fabric (see Fii matter. usually 6). ' ' lint or waste, accidently 2244-1972 of surface. woven into a FIG. 6 GOVT Grey Cloth .- A cloth in the loom state before dyed. Gunny-A general term applied it is scoured, jute bleached or to manufactured H goods. Heat Sealing - A method ofjoining plastic film by simultaneous tion of heat and pressure to the area in contact. applica- Hessian - A fabric of plain weave made from single jute yarn of approximately the same count [from 241 to 344 tex (or 7 to 10 grist) for ordinary hessian and 172 to. 211 tex (or 5 to 6 grist) for finer hessian] and weighing from 150 to 370 g/m2. It is normally used as packing material. I Impregnated Fabric - A fabric in which yarn partially filled with impregnating compound throughout material. 15 is completely or the thickness of the IS: 2244-1972 Industrial Fabric a) A variety of fabric used in various mechanical processes. b) The fabrics which are processed or treated so as to form part of another product ac neated fabric or oil cloth. lnsulatioir Resistance-The resistance offered by an insulating material to an impressed direct ,voltage determined by measuring the small leakage current which flows through the insulating material. J Jean A heavy cotton jean made with woven with 2/l twill. a highly finished, twilled face K Khaddar (Khadi) -An from handspun such fibres. Indian term for fabric woven on handlooms yarn of cotton, silk, wool fibres or a blend of two or more Knitted Fabric - A fabric made with only one series of continuous threads instead of two as in woven fabric and in which the threads are interlooped. L Lacquer -4 solution of natural or synthetic resin in readily solvents, which is used as a protective coating. process of bonding evaporating Laminated-The Laminated Sheet - two or more layers of materials. A sheet consisting of superimposed layers of paper, fabric, veneer or felt (mat) that have been substantially impregnated with a thermosetting or curable resin and bonded together under pressure, with or Other ingredients, such as colouring without heat, to form a single piece. matter, may be incorporated.' Lap-A applications sheet of fibres or cloth wrapped round in different sections of the trade. a core with specific dyed, Lawn - A light weight cotton fabric in plain weave, or printed and given a crisp starch finish. Leather Cloth -A material. bleached, cloth coated with natural or synthetic polymer The fabric may be coated and embossed on one or both sides. XorE - The term was fomlerly applied to various types of coated fabrics which sinlulated the appearance and feel of leather. Length, Breaking - See Breaking Length. 16 Is: 2244-1972 Lengthwise -- A direction optionally specified or selected, such as (a) the longer direction of the sample; (b) the machine direction, that- q-the direction in which the material is formed and travels in or on the machine during the process of manufacture; (c) the direction in which the sample is known to be stronger in a designated property; and (d) a direction arbitrarily selected particularly when the property to be measured isexpected to be uniform in the place of measurement. Linear Long Density Cloth See Density, Linear. cotton fabric in plain weave. A soft light weight bleached Luster (Lustre) - That property of a textile material by virtue of which the latter exhibits differences in intensity of light reflected from within a given area of material when the angles of illumination or weaving are changed. M Matt Finish fabric. The smooth, dull finish on the face fabric woven side in of the treated plain, striped, the Matting-Jute-A dobby or jacquard jute floor covering designs. Mechanical Adhesion-An adhesion between surfaces adhesion holds the parts together by interlocking action. in which Mechanical Fabric - A class of heavy fabrics used in various industries, such as sheeting for the laundry trade and duck for tent. Mesh in contact Migration compound Migration The opening or space between the threads of a net or fabric. The transfer of a material with it. from a plastic to another solid of Plasticizer with subsequent -The loss of plasticizer from a polymer absorption by an adjacent medium, sized textile material growth of mildew Mildew -- A superficial fungal growth on a heavily or siiing material. Mildew Resistant and mould. A fabric treated to resist the Missing End - A narrow warpwise void in a fabric caused by breakage of warp yarn(s) during weaving. Milling Pick - A pick which is missing from one selvedge to the other. Mixed Weft-A band in fabric running weftwise with an appearance different from the appearance of the rest of the fabric. 17 IS : !2244-1972 Moisture Content -The under prescribed condition the moist material. amount of moisture in a material determined and expressed as a percentage of the weight of Moisture Free -The condition of a material that has been exposed in an atmosphere of desiccated air until there is no further significant change in its mass. Moisture Regain -The amount of moisture in a material determined under prescribed conditions and expressed as a percentage of the weight of the moisture free specimen. Monomer polymer. A relatively simple chemical N Naps (Cotton) - The small aggregates of loosely entangled cotton fibres. They are comparatively easy to remove from cotton and generally their individual fibres can be easily separated. They are larger than neps. Necking-The in a material Neps -The fibres usually remove from difficult to be localized reduction under tensile stress. in cross section which may occur which can react to form a small knot-like aggregates of tightly entangled cotton not larger than. a common pin-head, which are difficult to cotton and from which the individual fibres are generally separated. Nip - The line of tangency between two rolls in contact with one another, or between either of the rolls and the surface of an object passing between them. 0 Oil Cloth (Oiled Fabric) dried to make it waterproof. A thin fabric soaked in drying oil and Open Assembly Time (in Adhesive Bonding) -The time during which adhesive coated surfaces are exposed in air before being brought into contact. Orange Peel-As applied resembling an orange peel. Organosol to a defect, the uneven polymer surface somewhat together - A suspension of a finely with a volatile organic liquid. divided in a plasticizer, Oven Dry-The condition of material that has been heated under prescribed conditions of temperature and humidity until there is no further significant change in its mass. 18 Is : 2244-1972 Oxford Weave colour effects. A fabric with basket P Parachute Fabric used in man-dropping A fabric used in or supply-dropping making parachutes purposes. which are weave, usually made in two Parallel Lamin ated - Pertaining to a laminate in which all the layers of material are oriented approximately parallel with respect to the grain or strongest direction in tension. Paulins coverings. The short for tarpaulins or comparable type of treated fabric Pebble Texture-The irregular or rough surface texture of a fabric. The term is often used for the brinkled appearance of a creped fabric. Permanent Set See Set. Permeability - The rate of flow of fluid, vapour or gas under a differential pressure through a material. Pick (Count) Glass - A magnifying for counting ends and picks of fabrics. Picks glass with gauzed aperture used The weft or filling yarn which lies across the length of a fabric. The weight of a proofing composition an undesirable retained small by the fabric. conical elevation Pick-Up - Pimple-As applied to a defect, on the surface (see also Blister). Pinhole Plain -Weave See Weave, Plain. A tiny hole in the surface of, or- through, a material. after PlasticityThe tendency of a material to remain deformed reduction of the deforming stress to or below its yield stress. Plasticize -To soften by addition of plasticizer. Plasticizer-A substance of low. volatility incorporated in a plastic material to increase its flexibility or extensibility or ease of processing. Plastigel plasticizer. PlastisolPlaten-A assembly. A gel like suspension of polymer transmits of a finely divided plasticizer. to a mould or laminate polymer in a A suspension plate which in liquid pressure formed by the reaction Polymer - A compound having functional groups that permit their combination 19 of simple molecules to proceed to high IS : 2244 - 1972 molecular weights under suitable conditions. Polymers may be formed by polymerization (addition polymer) or polycondensation (condensation polymer). When two or more different monomers are involved, the product is called a copolymer. Poplin - A light weight, firm, cross-ribbed fabric in plain weave. The rib effect is obtained by coarser yarn in the weft than in a warp or by using a preponderance of warp threads or both. Porous The presence of numerous minute voids on treated fabrics. Porosity -The ratio of the volume of air or void contained within the boundaries of a material to the total volume (solid matter plus air or void) expressed as a percentage: Porosity = where V"X100 vt V, = volume of voids, and Vt = total volume. Primer - A coating applied to a surface, prior to the application of an adhesive, lacquer, enamel, etc, to improve the performance of the bond. Printing - A process of enhancing the appearance of cloth by application of colours, pigments or flocks on cloth to produce ornamental designs or special effects. Proohg - The process of treated water, fire, micro-organism, etc. fabrics to render them resistant to Pulled Surface-As applied to a defect, imperfections in the surface of a laminated polymeric material ranging from a slight breaking or lifting of its surface in spots to pronounced separation of its surface from its body. R Reed Mark - A pronounced warp-way crack in a woven by a damage or defective reed (see Fig. 7) (see aLso Crack). Reel - fabric caused A material in roll form when ;he width is less than 100 mm. Relative Humidity-The ratio of the actual pressure of the water vapour in the atmosphere to the saturation vapour pressure at the same The ratio is usually expressed as percentage. temperature. Relative Permittivity See Dielectric Constant. it is able to. Resilience - The property of a material by virtue of which return to the original state from its deformed state. 20 FIG. 7 REED MARK Resin - A solid, semisolid or pseudosolid organic material that has an indefinite and often high molecular weight, exhibiting'a tendency to flow when subjected to stress, usually has a softening or melting range and fractures conchoidally. In a broad sense the term is used to designate any polymer that is a. basic material for plastics. Resistivity (Electrical) - The resistance of a unit cube of a material It is measured in ohmto the passage of current between two opposite faces. centimetres. Roll A material in roll form when the width is more than 100 mm. emulsion based and on with bitumen Roofing Felt - A needled felt impregnated dusted with talcum powder or other anti-tack materials. Rubber&cd Fabric-A fabric natural or synthetic rubber. treated with composition S Saran -- A man-made vinyl chloride. fibre comoosed a of conolvmers 1 I of vinylidene by a sateen weave and weave with Sateen - A fabric with a lustrous surface obtained with weft floats. Satin - A fabric witn a lustrous surface, obtained warp floats. 21 by a satin IS : 2244-1972 scouring a) General - A process of cleaning fibre, yarn or fabric of impurities. b) Silk - A process of removing natural gum from silk goods and yarns by boiling in soap solution; Seamless also known as `degumming'. knit fabric without seams. formed Fabric - A tubular Selvedges (or Selvages) - The longitudinal edges of a fabric in such a way that its component threads cannot ravel. Set - The strain remaining deformation. after complete release of the load producing the NOTE- Due to practical consideration, such as distortion in the specimen and slack in the strain indicating system, measurements of strain at a small load rather than zero load are often taken. Set is often refeed to as permanent set if it show3 no further significaqt change with time. Time elapsing between removal of load and final reading of set should be stated. Setting Time - The time taken for a material to harden sufficiently sewn for curing. Sewn Bias-Cut-A bias-cut material in short lengths before or after varnishing to form a continuous length. together Shantoong -- A plain weave fabric with `a slubbed or nubbed texture originally made from yarns of tusser silk in which the natural yarn irregularities have been retained. Now-a-days other fibres are used and the yarn irregularities are simulated. Shrinkage - The reduction in width or length or both, that takes place in a treated fabric when it is washed or dry cleaned. `Residual shrinkage' is the percentage of shrinkage that remains in the treated fabrics after it has been subjected to a shrinkage process. qhrinkage that may occur on subsequent washing is the `progressive shrinkage'. Sing&g - A process of burning off protruding of fabric to obtain a smooth surface. fibres from the surface Single Tezture Rubberized Fabric side with rubber composition. The fabric coated on one or both Size -A colloidal solution of materials, such as starch and glue, which is generally applied when hot before weaving and which when cold forms a film. It strengthens and stiffens the warp. Sizing A process of applying. size to the warp. A machine for cutting continuous In coated fabric, a damaged film or sheeting into narrower the coating is missing. Slitter units. smash area where or ruptured. 22 specimen NOTE - A piece or portion of a sample used to make a test. Specific tests usually require test specimens of specific shape and dimensions. a) General- The process or processes for producing single yarn. b) Silk 1) The process of making yarn out of discontinuous filament of silk. 2) An operation by which silk worm produce COCOOI~S. Spread - The quantity of adhesive per unit joint area applied to an adherent. It may be expressed in kilos of liquid or solid adhesive per hundred square metres of joint area. Single spread refers to application of adhesive to one adherent of a joint. Double spread refers to application of adhesive to both adherents of a joint. spreader - A device or machine to cover a surface with a desired amount of fluid materials, for example, adhesives or coating materials. siainingA process of colouring fibres with purpose of identifying them. different colours for the etc, Staple - A comprehensive term to include length, fineness, drag, of fibres. Static - Accumulation of electrostatic charge on fibres, yarns or fabrics when they rub against each other or against the insulated parts of the processing machinery. stif&ess -A relationship of load and deformation; a term often used when the relationship of stress and strain does not conform to the definition of Young's modulus.. Straight-Cut-A material cut so that one set of threads (usually the warp) is parallel with the edges and the other set at right angles. Strain - The unit change due to force in the size of a body referred to its original size. Strand-A single fibre, filament or monofilament, or a single ordered assembly of textile fibres having a high ratio of length to diameter and normally used as a unit including slivers, rovings, single yarns, plied yarns, cords, braids, ropes, etc. longitudinal line or lines caused by the undispersed Stnak -The material, such as pigment, resin or filler, on a treated fabric during processing. strength - The ability of a material to resist strain or rupture induced by external forces. 23 Is: 2244-1972 Stress - The resultant initial resistance to deformation developed within a specimen subjected to an external force; for example, tensile, shear and compressive stresses. Stress Crack -An external or internal crack in a rubberized caused by'stresses less than its ultimate strength. material NOTE- The development of s&h cracks is frequently accelerated by the environ-. ment to which the material is exposed. *h e st resses which cause cracking may be present internally or externally or may be combinations of these stresses. Stress-Strain Curve -- A diagram in which stress and strain are plotted against each other. corresponding values of NW~E- The values of stress are usually plotted as ordinates (vertically) and values of strain as abscisses (horizontally). Stretch - A physical change accompanied by an increase in dimension. Surface Resistivity - The surface resistivity of a material is the quotient obtained when the potential gradient parallel to the direction of the current flow along its surface is divided by the current per unit width of surface. NOTE-Surface resistivity of a material is equal to the surface resistance between two electrodes forming opposite sides of a square. The size of the square is immaterial. T closely woven, smooth, crisp fabric in plain weave or its Taffeta -A derivative in which the warp and weft yarns are of the same or nearly the same count. Take-Off-A device for conveying away from the machine. Take-Up-A Tape device to wind extruded extruded or calendered material. material or calendered A woven narrow fabric not exceeding 100 mm in width. cover, usually weave made and of in in Tarpaulin - A made-up article, tarpauling or other heavy cloth. Tarpauling construction such as wagon - A double warp single weft cloth in plain finer than bagging, but coarser than canvas. to start or Tearing Strength -The force required a fabric under specified conditions. Tensile Strength-The specimen under prescribed area of the specimen. continue a tear maximum tensile load sustained by the test conditions divided by the original cross-sectional varieties of heavy waterproofed cloth Tent Cloth-A duck or other used in the fabrication of tents. Tex - The primary unit in a system of units for expressing count of yarn, the mass in grams of one kilometre of yarn. the universal NOTE- This system is also intended to be used for expressing the weight per unit length of fibres and other textile products like ropes, rovings, etc, and is to be used in place of all other systems previously used for such purposes. The following multiple and submultiple units may be used to avoid large numbers and small fractions, respectively: 1 ktex (kilotex)= 1 000 tex 1 mtex (millitex)=0401 tex Thermoforming - A forming with the aid of heat. Thermoplastic - Capable of being repeatedly softened by increase of temperature and hardened by decrease of temperature. Thermoplastic applies to those materials whose change upon heating is substantially physical rather than chemical. Thickener A substance that increases the viscosity of a fluid. one or more operation, ThreadThe result of twisting together in two or more single, folded, or cabled yarns. term is frequently used to describe single yams. NOTE 1 -The NOTE 2 - In the natural silk industry, thread is used as a synonym of fold, for example, 3 thread 13/15 denier yarn. Tinting-The colouring permit of easy distinction. Tolerance material. -The of fibres and yarns with fugitive colours to prescribed limits for specific properties of a particular treated in a Tracing Cl&h-A very fine plain-weave cotton fabric special manner to make it suitable for use for tracings; Transverse - In winding or reeling the-movement of an end or ends parallel to the axis of rotation, which spaces the turns across the yarn package. Treated Fabric-A fabric which has been treated with get a desired effect like waterproof, fireproof, opacity, etc. Tube a) A holder or bobbin of cylindrical package of cylindrical form. b) A cylindrical yarn package shape used as a core chemicals to for a yarn formed by winding on a tube. Tweed-A medium to heavy weight woollen fabric in twill weave, with rough unfinished appearance, but soft and flexible in texture, used for It is usually featured by soft, broken effects of colour suits, coats, etc. attained by blends; also made in plain colours and in checks and plains. Twills -- A fabric with a weave repeating on three or picks and producing diagonal lines on the face of the fabric. 25 more ends and Ist 224411972 Weave -A Twill of the cloth. Twine -A weave that produces diagonal lines on the surface product used primarily for tying, made by twisting fibres into rovings, yarns, threads, or strands, or by twisting multiples of any one of these into a unit. U Ultimate Elongation - See Elongation. Under Cure - A condition that arises when insufficient time or temperature or both has been allowed for adequate cure (see Cure). fabric which shows variation the piece at regular or irregular intervals. Uneven Dyeing-A in shade throughout non-uniformity of the linear density of a continuous Unevenness -The strand or portion of a strand. Usable Width - The width of a material which is coated and finished uniformly and in such a manner that the cloth backing is not visible through the coating unless the coating is intended to be translucent or discontinuous. V Varnished Vinyl Cotton Cloth - The cotton cloth treated with varnish. Plastics - Plastics based on resins made from vinyl monomers, except those specifically covered by other classifications, such as acrytic and styrene plastics. Typical vinyl plastics are polyvinyl chloride, polyvinyl acetate, or polyvinyl butyral, and copolymers of vinyl monomers with unsaturated compounds. Volume is the Resistivity - The volume resistivity of a material quotient obtained when the potential gradient parallel to the direction of the current flow in the material is divided by the current density. W series of loops in the lengthwise direction Wale -A formed by one needle. of a knitted fabric, Warp a) The threads lengthways in a fabric as woven. b) A number of threads in long lengths and running in the same direction intended for weaving or knitting. 26 such as waxes, WaterprooSng - To treat the fabric with materials, insoluble soaps, rubber or other materials, to render it impervious to water. Water Repellant -A the immediate wetting Wavy Cloth `Cockling'). Weathering term describing any of a fabric by water. treatment which table prevents (see also A cloth that does not lie flat on a cutting The exposure of materials to outdoors. Weathering, Artificial-The exposure of plastics to cylic laboratory conditions comprising high and low temperatures, high and low relative humidities, and ultraviolet radiant energy, with or without direct water spray, in an attempt to produce changes in their properties similar to those The laboratory exobserved on long time continuous exposure outdoors. posure conditions are usually intensified beyond those encountered in actual outdoor exposure in an attempt to achieve an accelerated effect. Weave, Plain - A fabric pattern in which each yarn of the passes alternately over and under a yarn of warp and each yarn warp passes alternately over and under a yarn of the filling. Weave, Weft a) The transverse b) Those threads in a woven fabric. perpendicular to the warp. of a &ease fibres running Twill See Twill Weave. filling of the Wrinkle - A surface imperfection that has the appearance in the surface layer or other base which has been pressed in. 27 AMENDMENT IS : 2244 - 1972 NO. 1 TO APRIL 1979 GLOSSARY OF TERMS RELATING TO TREATED FABRICS ( First Revision ) Alterations ( Page 6, Coated Fabric ) matter: Substitute the following for the existing of material `Coated Fabric -A fabric with an adherent layer or layers on one or both surfaces resulting in a single product.' ( Page 6, Coating) -- Substitute `Coating a) Coating is a process of applying powder form upon a fabric. b) Coating is layer(s) of material composition the follokng for the existing matter: in liquid, paste or applied on a fabric.' ( Page 16, Laminated) -Delete. ( Page 16, Laminated Sheet ) -- Substitute matter: `Laminatiop --The the following for the existing process of bonding two or more layers of materials.' the following for the existing with a substance or ( Page 25, Treated Fabric ) -- Substitute matter: `Treated Fabric - A fabric which has been treated substances to get a desired characteristic.' Addendum ( Page 15, Impregnated Fabric ) -Add ` Impregnated Fabric `: the following new term after `Impregnation - Impregnation is a process by which a substance in the The substance penetrates wholly fluid form is applied on to a fabric. or partially the interstices and pores of the fabric.' ( CETDC 3 ) Prlnted at New India Prlntlng Press, Khuria, India